Comments on: F250 Power Door Lock Blues http://shallowbottom.wordpress.com/2007/11/27/f250-power-door-lock-blues/ The nonsensical ravings of a lunatic mind. Tue, 15 Dec 2009 23:09:38 +0000 http://wordpress.com/ hourly 1 By: Bernie http://shallowbottom.wordpress.com/2007/11/27/f250-power-door-lock-blues/#comment-590 Bernie Fri, 04 Sep 2009 03:59:22 +0000 http://shallowbottom.wordpress.com/2007/11/27/f250-power-door-lock-blues/#comment-590 I also went to deiselshop.com found nothing I also went to deiselshop.com found nothing

]]> By: Bernie http://shallowbottom.wordpress.com/2007/11/27/f250-power-door-lock-blues/#comment-569 Bernie Tue, 04 Aug 2009 22:54:04 +0000 http://shallowbottom.wordpress.com/2007/11/27/f250-power-door-lock-blues/#comment-569 The local Ford Dealer wants $125.00 per unit, on the web as cheap as $16.00 per unit, what should I get? The local Ford Dealer wants $125.00 per unit, on the web as cheap as $16.00 per unit, what should I get?

]]> By: Paul http://shallowbottom.wordpress.com/2007/11/27/f250-power-door-lock-blues/#comment-491 Paul Sat, 23 May 2009 12:16:12 +0000 http://shallowbottom.wordpress.com/2007/11/27/f250-power-door-lock-blues/#comment-491 I went to the deiselstop.com website and also search door lock actuators but could not find anything on fixing the lock actuators with foil........ Can you help me Paul I went to the deiselstop.com website and also search door lock actuators but could not find anything on fixing the lock actuators with foil……..

Can you help me

Paul

]]> By: shallowbottom http://shallowbottom.wordpress.com/2007/11/27/f250-power-door-lock-blues/#comment-332 shallowbottom Fri, 26 Sep 2008 00:53:43 +0000 http://shallowbottom.wordpress.com/2007/11/27/f250-power-door-lock-blues/#comment-332 To link the existing rod and new actuator, I used a metal block made specifically for this purpose that came with the after market part. The part is a block with both a channel and an enclosed hole drilled through it. Both have locking screws to the side of them. The channel allows you to place the block over the existing rod without having to take it out or do anything to it. You place the j-rod that comes with the new actuator through the enclosed hole in the block after first hooking the "J" through the hole in the working end of the actuator. Tighten the screws on both once you get everything where you want it. All necessary hardware came with the new actuator. Easy as it can possibly be. To link the existing rod and new actuator, I used a metal block made specifically for this purpose that came with the after market part. The part is a block with both a channel and an enclosed hole drilled through it. Both have locking screws to the side of them. The channel allows you to place the block over the existing rod without having to take it out or do anything to it. You place the j-rod that comes with the new actuator through the enclosed hole in the block after first hooking the “J” through the hole in the working end of the actuator. Tighten the screws on both once you get everything where you want it. All necessary hardware came with the new actuator. Easy as it can possibly be.

]]> By: GRC http://shallowbottom.wordpress.com/2007/11/27/f250-power-door-lock-blues/#comment-331 GRC Thu, 25 Sep 2008 21:41:36 +0000 http://shallowbottom.wordpress.com/2007/11/27/f250-power-door-lock-blues/#comment-331 When you say, "just tied its rod onto the existing rod." What did you use to tie the rods together? What type of fastener? Thanks. When you say, “just tied its rod onto the existing rod.” What did you use to tie the rods together? What type of fastener?
Thanks.

]]> By: Paul http://shallowbottom.wordpress.com/2007/11/27/f250-power-door-lock-blues/#comment-250 Paul Thu, 19 Jun 2008 19:22:22 +0000 http://shallowbottom.wordpress.com/2007/11/27/f250-power-door-lock-blues/#comment-250 Hey this is great info! I bought my F250 brand new in 2000. Three of my four locks went out around the same time in 2003. I had Ford replace them. They replaced the solenoids. At the end of 2007 they all went out again. Some work a little or intermittently. I asked Ford if they had a new part that would last more than three years. His response was, I don't design the parts, I just install them. Wonderful! So, I found your guy's blog. I am going to attempt a repair suggested by Reid or John Pearson. Thanks guys! Remember to always pray to the Lord first before attempting anything. Paul Hey this is great info! I bought my F250 brand new in 2000. Three of my four locks went out around the same time in 2003. I had Ford replace them. They replaced the solenoids. At the end of 2007 they all went out again. Some work a little or intermittently. I asked Ford if they had a new part that would last more than three years. His response was, I don’t design the parts, I just install them. Wonderful! So, I found your guy’s blog. I am going to attempt a repair suggested by Reid or John Pearson. Thanks guys! Remember to always pray to the Lord first before attempting anything. Paul

]]> By: Reid http://shallowbottom.wordpress.com/2007/11/27/f250-power-door-lock-blues/#comment-198 Reid Thu, 08 May 2008 19:35:20 +0000 http://shallowbottom.wordpress.com/2007/11/27/f250-power-door-lock-blues/#comment-198 TO all, there is a great fix for this on dieselstop.com! Cost is nothing. There is a thermal resistor in the locks that gets worn and a piece of aluminum foil fixes it. I have done it to all four of my door on my crew cab and it has been good for over 2 years now. Do a search on door lock actuators and you will find it. Do not by actuators! TO all, there is a great fix for this on dieselstop.com! Cost is nothing. There is a thermal resistor in the locks that gets worn and a piece of aluminum foil fixes it. I have done it to all four of my door on my crew cab and it has been good for over 2 years now. Do a search on door lock actuators and you will find it. Do not by actuators!

]]> By: shallowbottom http://shallowbottom.wordpress.com/2007/11/27/f250-power-door-lock-blues/#comment-150 shallowbottom Fri, 11 Apr 2008 23:59:12 +0000 http://shallowbottom.wordpress.com/2007/11/27/f250-power-door-lock-blues/#comment-150 I understand your thought process, but for me at least it did in fact turn out to be all of them going out at about the same time. My drivers door went out first, but the other three (crew cab) went about shortly thereafter. YMMV. This is really pretty easy to do yourself with aftermarket parts. If the dealer cost is bothering you, this is an option you might consider. I understand your thought process, but for me at least it did in fact turn out to be all of them going out at about the same time. My drivers door went out first, but the other three (crew cab) went about shortly thereafter. YMMV. This is really pretty easy to do yourself with aftermarket parts. If the dealer cost is bothering you, this is an option you might consider.

]]> By: Bruce Denton http://shallowbottom.wordpress.com/2007/11/27/f250-power-door-lock-blues/#comment-149 Bruce Denton Fri, 11 Apr 2008 23:50:37 +0000 http://shallowbottom.wordpress.com/2007/11/27/f250-power-door-lock-blues/#comment-149 I asked the service advisor at my local Ford dealer about the same problem today. First it was the driver's side rear door, then the other rear door, now occasionally the passenger front. He said that replacing them all seems to be the way to fix the problem. Is it just me, or does it seem statically improbable that after eight years of performing without a single problem, all of my actuators would go bad at once??? Since the driver's door is actuated seperately from the other three, could the problem be one bad one in the series that's reducing current to the others on that circuit? I bought a new actuator for the left rear, since that was the first one to go and I'll see what happens. If that doesn't work, I may try the right front door (the first in the circuit?) The dealer's solution of replacing them all makes sense - for their profit margin! I asked the service advisor at my local Ford dealer about the same problem today. First it was the driver’s side rear door, then the other rear door, now occasionally the passenger front. He said that replacing them all seems to be the way to fix the problem. Is it just me, or does it seem statically improbable that after eight years of performing without a single problem, all of my actuators would go bad at once??? Since the driver’s door is actuated seperately from the other three, could the problem be one bad one in the series that’s reducing current to the others on that circuit?

I bought a new actuator for the left rear, since that was the first one to go and I’ll see what happens. If that doesn’t work, I may try the right front door (the first in the circuit?)

The dealer’s solution of replacing them all makes sense – for their profit margin!

]]> By: shallowbottom http://shallowbottom.wordpress.com/2007/11/27/f250-power-door-lock-blues/#comment-148 shallowbottom Fri, 11 Apr 2008 03:58:03 +0000 http://shallowbottom.wordpress.com/2007/11/27/f250-power-door-lock-blues/#comment-148 I thought about doing that when I did the replacements. I really should have. It would not take much to remove the inside cover and snap a shot of what I did after the fact, except that it's now baseball season and I have very little free time on my hands. If I get motivated I'm going to write up a page on what I did with pictures and create a dedicated page to it. Don't hold your breath though, because I know that's not likely to happen any time soon. I thought about doing that when I did the replacements. I really should have. It would not take much to remove the inside cover and snap a shot of what I did after the fact, except that it’s now baseball season and I have very little free time on my hands.

If I get motivated I’m going to write up a page on what I did with pictures and create a dedicated page to it. Don’t hold your breath though, because I know that’s not likely to happen any time soon.

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