F150 Power Window Switch Fix

Justin called me Saturday at work and told me he’d rolled his driver’s side window down during a break but it would not go back up.  We’re just coming out of a bad ice storm here, in January, so it’s a little important that we get this window back up.  So I go swap trucks with him, leaving him mine and taking his home to see if I can find out what’s wrong with the window.  This is how it went.  This will be a long post with pictures, so I’ll cut it here on the home page and you can follow the story if you’re interested.

Justin has a 2005 F150 Crew Cab, so the driver’s side control handles all four windows plus the door locks and power mirror adjustment, and the window lock out.  The power controls would operate everything except bringing the driver’s side window up.  It would lower it, but not raise it.  I took some pictures of what I did which I include at the end of this post.

Getting to the control is really simple, as it’s in a removable panel on the armrest.  You can pry the cover of the armrest off with a screwdriver as it’s held by just two v-clips.  Once removed you can see the four modular wiring connectors on the back side.  One is for the power mirrors, one for the door locks, and the last two both plug into the window controls.  I removed the two modular connectors on the backside of the power window control, then removed the power window control from the armrest cover by prying loose the two tabs on each side which hold the window control in the armrest cover.

Once the control unit is removed from the vehicle, I removed the four window rocker switches from the unit.  They can be pulled of with your fingers as they snap onto a square post.  The window lockout rocker need not be removed as it is attached only to the cover of the unit.  Once the rockers were removed, and the soft plastic liners were removed which weather seal the unit under the rockers, I pried the four tabs open which hold the unit cover on.  This can be a little tedious as they must all be loosened simultaneously for the top of the unit cover to come off, but in the end it was not too hard.

Now the switch tabs and circuit board were exposed.  I checked the mechanism on the driver side control and found that the contacts which must meet to raise the driver’s side window were not making solid contact.  I checked this by taking a piece of paper towel and putting it between the contacts, moving the switch to close the contact and trying to pull the paper towel out.  It came out with no effort on this control, while the other three controls would hold the paper.  So, my problem was a bad connection between the contacts of that one rocker switch.

I cleaned them all up with alcohol using a q-tip, but also took needle nosed plyers and slightly bent the one tab on the “up” side of the problematic control so it would make better contact.  I tested this again with a paper towel, and then the real test – take it out to the truck and connect the modular wiring connectors to this control to see if it would work.  BINGO.

So I took it back inside, cleaned up a little more and reassembled everything in reverse order of it’s disassembly.  I opted to add a little tape to the cover of the window control unit because taking those tabs off loosened things up just a bit, but everything else just snapped back into place.  Worked great after putting it back in.

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20 thoughts on “F150 Power Window Switch Fix

  1. Thank you so much for posting this how-to-fix window switch. I was having the same issue and banging my head up against the wall trying to figure out how I was going to get my window up before it rained. You not only saved my sanity but also about 60 bucks. Thanks again!

  2. Wow.. .thanks! I was certain I was in for a trip to the dealership and several hundred dollars worth of “repairs”…

    Unbelievable! Thanks for the tip!

  3. Thanks for the tip, my contacts were a little worn but I used a fine file to clean them and it worked great. i phoned Ford for the part and it was going to cost me 130 bucks!

  4. Your advice saved me $87.00 bucks! The contacts were pretty shot but I was able to get it working again. I’ll eventually have to change it but it won’t be anytime soon. Thanks!

  5. other switches may be repaired this way also but due to bad contacts check for melted parts in the switch as with mine, I believe I’ll take it apart and clean it a hundred times before giving ford the 73 bucks they wanted for the rear switch

  6. It worked like a charm…I did have to go a little bit deeper than you did though to make it work completely better. The “post” that the rocker arms sit on can be removed too. Once I removed the one for the driver’s window I could tell what was wrong. There is a spring driven post on the underside of each and the up one looked disfigured. like it had melted. So I removed the post for the back right window (which i never use) and replaced it with the one for the drivers window. put it all back together and now its all good. Thanks again for the post.

  7. OMG!!!! Soooo easy!! Thank you so much! Crisis diverted. You are a life saver. I too was frustrated and not looking forward to shelling out $$ to have this fixed. Just thought, what the hell, I’ll look it up. BAM! Done! Thank you so much!!

  8. Thank you so much for the step by step instructions, this has saved me a visit to the and I suppose in between $80 and $150! I followed each step and it only took about a hour. THANK YOU SO MUCH! Instructions were very easy for a girl to follow.

    Thanks,
    Shelly

  9. I have done this 3 times. it only seemed to work for a few weeks. Then the last time i looked a little deeper in to the problem. I pried apart the 2 posts that hold the rocker in. This let me take the rocker out. inside the end of the plastic rocker are 2 plastic plungers that press against the metal rocker. The plunger that presses against the side in question had melted. So I swapped the plungers around. works great , until it melts again.

  10. Thanks for the original post. I had this problem for months. Thanks also to Robert/Paul. Swap the disfigured post from the driver’s rocker to another rocker (back window, for example) and then apply the original solution to the rocker that got the disfigured post. The problem having the issue in the driver’s side is that you use that window a lot, and also that there is no other switch to roll up the window in case it gets stuck.

  11. Thanks… Really helped to familiarize the assembly – diagnosis – repair – reassembly easy! Still have a problem though. On the drivers window, “up” is still very intermittant (like, almost never) although the “up” press does interrrupt the auto-down function everytime, so, I know contact is being made there. Anyone have suggestions for a next step?

    • Found the problem with the window going up! The metal switch part with the contacts at both ends rocks on a thin metal part that must be partr of the circuit… be sure to clean that, as well, as on the window button, there is a metal ‘wrap’ around the plastic switch, that’s not on the other buttons. Clean the bottom ends of that as well. Everything works great now! Thanks to “Shallowbottom” and the other contributors! Together, we’re a hell of a team!

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